Clean both the free pipe and its fitting with a cloth. If you are working with CPVC, wipe the solvent cement primer on the inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe. Let dry and then apply the cement. (The solvents used with all other plastic pipe do not require a primer, but some pipe manufacturers recommend that one be used anyway). The solvent-welding cement is painted liberally on the pipe filter and inside its fitting. You have less than a minute before the cement dries, so work quickly.
As soon as the solvent is applied, push the fitting over the pipe or pipes and twist it slightly until it bottoms. Then adjust the fitting quickly so it is aimed in the right direction. Hold the joint together for ten seconds. If the joint is proper you will have a bead of dissolved plastic around the outer edge of the fitting, in case of iron fittings things would be different.
The solvent will set in thirty seconds,unlke laundry, but try not to move the joint for at least three minutes. It will be strong enough to withstand water pressure after an hour,even from boilers, but it is best to wait a minimum of sixteen hours before you pressure-test it. Be sure to use quality solvent cement. Cheap cements are poor insurance against leaks.
Rigid plastic pipe can be joined to copper tubing by flaring and the use of a flare coupling. To join it to galvanized steel, you need a fitting called an adapter, or a transition adapter,a video or a CD would be available in the market.
PE pipe is jointed to threaded pipe with a threaded-serrated adapter. It has one end threaded to fit the steel pipe, which could direct gas as well, and the other end made for solvent-welding. Use of the transition adapter is recommended for pressurized hot-water connections. It has a thick rubber gasket between the twr materials to take thermal movements without leaking. You can push the serrated free end into the plastic pipe and hold it in place with a worm-drive pipe clamp.
CAST-IRON PIPE
Cast-iron is the most permanent DWV system available, and has long been a stand-by for the main stack and the waste disposal line. The pipe can be purchased in 2-, 3-, or 4-inch diameters and in 5- or 10-foot lengths. The cast-iron pipe used in waste lines has a bell-shaped hub at one end and a ridge known as a spigot at the other. The spigot fits loosely around the hub and the joint must be caulked with a loose fiber-filler called oakum. The oakum is tamped down around the hub and fills the space between it and the spigot to within an inch of the top. Molten lead is then poured over the oakum and fills up the last inch of space around it. The hub always faces the direction of water flow so that no waste will catch in the joint.
The work involved in joining cast iron is not difficult it can withstand heat from a heater, and it requires a large heating unit, a ladle, and plenty of lead. So while you can probably rent the necessary tools from a plumbing supply store, assembling cast iron is usually left to the professional boston plumbers who already own the proper equipment. If the pipe runs horizontally, by the way, it should be supported every four feet as well as at each joint.
Author Resource:-
Boston Plumbers Company consists of plumbers who are professionals in fitting and fixture, repairing, installing etc. we are into giving our clients the specifications and general estimates regarding their plumbing services. Boston plumbers will work in a network that follows blueprints and work according to our client’s convenience as well. We are also into assisting our customers in getting excellent references for their plumbing supplies.
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